1. How far will you travel for a project?

Our picture hanging service primarily covers East Sussex, West Sussex, Kent, Surrey, and Hampshire, typically within a two-hour drive from the BN6 postcode. However, we’re happy to travel further—please get in touch to discuss your requirements. Whether you’re in Brighton, Tunbridge Wells, Guildford, or anywhere nearby, we’ll make sure your project is handled with care.

2. Do you provide the fixings, or should the client supply them?

Yes, I carry a wide range of professional-grade picture hanging fixings to suit most projects, including for framed artwork, canvases, and mirrors. If your project requires specific hardware or larger quantities, we’ll discuss it beforehand, and I can source exactly what’s needed.

3. What types of items can you hang?

I specialize in hanging a variety of items, including:

• Framed artwork

• Canvases

• Mirrors

• Picture walls

• Clocks

• Decorative panels and other heavy items

If you’re unsure whether I can hang your item, just ask!

4. Do you offer advice on placement and layout?

Yes! I provide expert advice on the best placement and layout for your artwork, mirrors, or gallery walls. Whether you’re decorating your home or enhancing a commercial space, I’ll help create a visually balanced and secure display.

5. Can you hang heavy or oversized items?

Absolutely. I have the tools and expertise to safely hang heavy or oversized items such as large mirrors and artwork. For extremely large pieces, we can discuss arrangements beforehand. If additional help is needed, I’ll let you know, though if you’re happy to assist, extra hands may not be required.

6. Do you work with commercial clients?

Yes, I provide professional picture hanging services for both residential and commercial spaces. I regularly work with offices, galleries, retail spaces, and hospitality venues across Sussex, Kent, and beyond.

7. What surfaces can you work with?

I can securely hang items on a variety of surfaces, including:

• Plaster

• Drywall

• Brick

• Concrete

If your wall material is unique or requires special handling, we’ll discuss it during our consultation.

8. How much notice do you need for a booking?

I recommend contacting me as early as possible to secure your preferred date. However, I’ll do my best to accommodate urgent requests, subject to availability.

9. How much do you charge?

My pricing is based on several factors:

• The time it takes to complete the project

• The distance I need to travel (with travel time included in the first hour)

• Whether extra hands are needed for particularly large or heavy items

Contact me for a detailed quote tailored to your specific project.

10. Can you repair or replace existing fixings?

I don’t usually repair existing fixings, but I can replace them with secure, high-quality alternatives to ensure your items are safely mounted.

11. What if I’m not happy with the placement?

Sometimes, after an item is hung, customers decide they’d like to make adjustments. I’m happy to accommodate changes to ensure you’re completely satisfied with the final result.

What to Expect on the Day

When I arrive for your picture hanging project, you can expect a professional and friendly service from start to finish. Here’s how the process typically works:

1. Arrival: I’ll arrive promptly at the scheduled time and discuss the details of your project with you.

2. Assessment: I’ll carefully assess the wall surfaces, layout, and any specific requirements for your items.

3. Placement Advice: If you’re happy, I can offer alternative ideas or suggestions to help achieve the perfect look for your space.

4. Secure Hanging: Using high-quality tools and fixings, I’ll ensure your items are securely and safely installed.

5. Final Check: Before leaving, I’ll confirm that you’re happy with the placement and make any adjustments if required.

How to Prepare for Your Appointment

To help ensure the smoothest experience on the day, here are a few steps you can take to prepare:

1. Clear the Area: Make sure the space around the wall(s) is clear of furniture or other obstacles, allowing easy access for the work.

2. Gather Your Items: If you have a lot of items, it’s worth organizing them into piles:

• Favourites: Must-haves that you’d like prominently displayed.

• Quite Likes: Items you’d like included if there’s space.

• Fillers: Items that are optional or can be used to complement the overall layout.

3. Remove Protective Materials: If your items are wrapped (often the case during a house move), please remove all protective material before my arrival—this will save time and allow us to focus on the installation.

4. Decide on Placement: If you already have a vision for where your items should go, feel free to share your ideas. If not, I’m happy to advise!

By following these steps, we can ensure a smooth and efficient process, making your space look its absolute best.

Picture Hanging Tips from Patrick

How high should I hang my pictures?

As a rule of thumb, the centre of a picture should sit between 155cm and 170cm from the floor — that’s roughly eye level for most people. I usually default to 160cm unless the ceilings are very high or the client is particularly tall. 155cm is often used by galleries, but I personally find it a little low unless specifically requested.

One of the easiest ways to choose the right height is to hold the picture up where it feels right, then use a Post-it note to mark the bottom edge of the picture. After that, measure from the floor to the mark, then add half the height of the picture — that gives you the centreline. If it lands near a clean number like 155, 160, 165 or 170, even better — easier to match and remember. In the end though, it really is the eye of the beholder.

What fixings should I use to hang my pictures?

It depends on the size and weight of the picture, but I always try to use two fixings where possible — ideally fixed directly to the frame rather than using string or wire. This keeps the picture steady, especially when cleaning or if it’s in a high-traffic area.

One of the main issues with string is that it can make the picture lean forward at the top, which doesn’t look great. I often add Velcro dots to the bottom corners to stop the picture from shifting or getting knocked out of alignment.

Should all my frames match?

Sometimes it’s lovely to have all the same frames — it can give a clean, coordinated look that really pulls a wall together. Neutral colours like black work well because they go with almost anything, and if they get chipped or scratched, you can easily touch them up with a black marker pen.

That said, matching isn’t a rule. Mixed frames can add character and warmth, especially if there’s a unifying element — like similar colours, tones, or materials — so it feels intentional. Consistent spacing and alignment will help the whole display look cohesive, even with different frames.

What’s the best way to hang heavy mirrors or artwork?

Never hang heavy mirrors or artwork on string — the hangers used are designed to take the weight directly downwards at 90°, not at an angle. For safety and stability, use heavy-duty picture hangers and have a separate wall fixing for each hanger on the frame.

This spreads the load evenly, keeps the piece level, and reduces strain on both the fixings and the frame. It also prevents the top from leaning forward, which can happen with string or wire.

How do I stop pictures from tilting?

The best way to stop a picture from tilting is to hang it with two fixings and avoid using string or wire. Two separate fixings keep the piece steady and level. String can also make a picture lean forward at the top, which can be unattractive.

If the picture is already on string and you can’t change it, you can use Velcro dots on the bottom corners. Once the picture is straight, press it firmly against the wall so the Velcro holds it in place.

Can you hang pictures on plasterboard walls safely?

Yes — but only if you use the right fixings and check what’s behind the wall first. I always scan the wall for pipes, wires, and other obstructions before drilling. For lighter pieces, plasterboard plugs or self-drilling plasterboard fixings work well. For heavier items, I use heavy-duty wall anchors or fix directly into a stud if possible.

The key is matching the fixing to the weight of the picture and the wall type — and using two fixings for better stability. Avoid using nails or cheap plastic plugs, as they can pull out easily from plasterboard.

Do I need to use a spirit level?

Yes — I always recommend using a spirit level on top of the picture to make sure it’s perfectly straight once it’s on the wall.

For marking the fixings, though, I prefer to use a laser level. It’s extremely accurate over long distances, whereas a standard spirit level can lose accuracy if the fixings are far apart. A laser also frees up your hands, making it quicker and easier to get both points spot on.

What’s the right spacing between pictures in a gallery wall?

I generally use around 6 cm (or 2½ inches) between pictures — it’s a good middle ground that works in most spaces. For really large pictures, I might increase the gap slightly, and I also adjust if the frames are very deep. Deep frames can make gaps disappear when viewed from an angle, which can look odd.

If you have frames of different depths, place the deeper ones at the ends, top, or bottom of the arrangement. This helps avoid the visual “gap disappearing” effect in the middle of the wall. Consistency is key — whatever spacing you choose, keep it the same throughout.

Should artwork be centred over furniture or on the wall itself?

It really depends on which looks best in the space. If the picture is large and takes up most of the wall, centring it on the furniture can look odd if it leaves one side with a noticeably bigger gap than the other. Sometimes you can make an off-centred picture work by breaking up the wall with a large plant, a floor-standing light, or another piece of furniture. This helps balance the space so the layout feels intentional rather than accidental.

Can I hang art in a bathroom or kitchen without damage?

Yes — but you need to be aware of the extra challenges in these spaces. In bathrooms, steam and humidity from showers can cause warping, mould, or discolouration. In kitchens, airborne fats and cooking residues can settle on surfaces. I recommend using frames with glass or acrylic glazing so the surface can be wiped clean, and avoiding putting your most valuable or irreplaceable art in these rooms — just in case.

How long does a professional installation take?

It really depends — every job is different. For example, if you have 25 pieces or more, you’re probably looking at a full day’s work. But the time can vary depending on whether I’m changing a lot of old fixings, designing feature walls, or creating layouts for the whole home.

Part of the process is also working with you to decide which pieces are your favourites, so they can be given prominent positions.